Crucifixion in Cacalotenango, Mexico

This is part of a series of images documenting Semana Santa (Easter) in Taxco and Cacalotenango, Mexico in April 2007.

This Easter I traveled to the colonial town of Taxco, Mexico to rest and document the customs originally brought from Spain almost 500 years ago – rituals once banned have been regularly practiced in Taxco once a year for the past 100 years or so. One can see, hear, and sense the processions as they wind through the ancient cobblestone streets. Children dressed as angels, followed by the faithful shouldering beautifully carved religious statuses. I witnessed “penitentes” who show their faith through self-inflicted suffering.

These dramas and processions is an amalgamation of Spanish and pre-Columbian worship and culture. For example the use of percussion and musical instruments, and the specific qualities of “penitente” practices. The indigenous identification with Christ’s (Jews) suffering at the hands of the Romans mirrors their own history of suffering at the hands of the conquistadors. The flagellations practices are reminiscent of those found in Aztec culture. Their use of decorations, plants (zarzamora) and materials by the “penitentes” are clear adaptations to medieval Spanish customs and ritual.


Taxco is reported to be the “Silver Center of the World” where four tons of silver a month are made into jewelry and other works of art. In the late 1920s, the charm of this colonial hillside town attracted William Spratling, a North American architect, writer and artist, and his charisma in turn made Taxco “the haunt of Bohemian American artists and literati.”

Since 9/11 they’ve been hit hard. These are a proud, hardworking people who are very devout in their spirituality and commitment to their families. This is the first of a series of images captured in Taxco as well as Cacalotenango. I got there by paying a private driver to bring me. Coming back I was blessed by having made friends with two Univision TV cameramen who’d managed to have a police truck at their disposal.


Cacalotenango is a small agricultural town in the mountains about one hour west of Taxco. The semana Santa Good Friday festivities are unique in that the passion play is acted out authentically. The whippings, flagellations and crucifixion actually occur live in front of spectators who are warned to stay clear of the action to avoid getting hurt they. The photographers were always so close that they were always highly at risk. A bullwhip that was meant for “Jesus” actually hit me.

I didn’t really get hurt but (in my mind :~) I fancied myself an “artist-penitent” of sorts as I roasted in the hot sun running up and down a wide area of hills and steep walkways trying to stay close to the action.

Let me tell you, this was as real an enactment as can be put on short of death. According to a penitent, who became a friend, the crucifixion was real on both hands though the feet were tied in place. As I followed the Christ figure through various phases of torture, defilement and physical injuries, there was no doubt he was actually experiencing incredible suffering, exhaustion and pain.

As a lapsed Catholic convert and human being I was extremely moved by the devotion of the participants and spectators who were able to relive the suffering, sacrifice and selflessness of this event.

I was told by a “penitente” this suffering was offered prayerfully for the wellbeing and healing of themselves, their families and communities. Beyond this was also an offering for national and world peace.

As an example, this indigenous “penitente” told me that he was praying for peace in Iraq and for the safety of American soldiers. Although I found these practices to be extreme and outside of my frame of experience, there was nothing fanatical or pathological about the people choosing to do this. They presented as very intelligent, discriminating, balanced and kind.

I got the sense that they were at peace with themselves and very centered. They seem to go into ecstatic or meditative states that defy ones concept of human endurance and healing. I was told elderly diabetics have healed completely after deep flagellations with lead tipped whips after exhausting processions of many miles.

To be honest, I don’t quite know what to think about all this, but I’m left with a deep sense of respect and admiration for their selfless sense of devotion and spiritual dedication.